Sun Protection Trends

May 18, 2010

There are two growing trends in sun protection formulations.  The first is to include multifunction ingredients that offer additional benefits  to the client, such as antioxidants and anti-aging botanicals.    The second is to improve the aesthetics of the product, making it pleasant enough that the client will use it on a daily basis.

New formulations are lighter weight and more easily absorbed.  Case in point:  Epionce’s Active Shield SPF 30 and Ultimate Shield SPF 50 include higher percentages of cosmetically-elegant zinc oxide (9.2% and 10.1% respectively) as well as antioxidants and botanical acids and extracts.  Both are most appropriate for normal to dry skin types and are rapidly absorbed.

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Electric Stimulation

April 28, 2010

Today I quote and/or paraphrase from a recent article by Leslie Baumann, M.D. in Skin & Allergy News, March 2010, p. 23 entitled “Electric Stimulation”.    After a brief discussion of the benefits of increasing collagen and elastin to decrease the effects of aging, Dr. Baumann eventually gets around to electric stimulation to stimulate wound healing (aka aging skin).

“I am intrigued with the idea of an electromimetic current being used to stimulate fibroblasts.  The notion of harnessing the natural electric currents of skin cells to increase collagen and elastin production is fascinating for several reasons, not the least of which is elimination of the issue of penetration of active ingredients.  A charge generated on the cells in the top layer will likely propagate to neighboring cells.  An enhancement of cell-to-cell communication would seem likely to extend to the lower layers, allowing the cells deeper in the dermins to ‘get the message'”.

She’s talking about microcurrent, as well as ingredients such as zinc and copper that harness electrical currents to stimulate fibroblasts into synthesizing collagen and elastin.   For those of us who see the results of microcurrent stimulation for anti-aging, this is old news.  And yet it’s gratifying that a dermatologist gets it and is curious.

Epionce Update

March 31, 2010

Yes, it’s coming!!!  Epionce has added a new “lightening” agent to their wonderful arsenal of skin care products.  If you are disturbed by brown spots or uneven pigment on your skin, whether it’s on your face, hands, neck, chest or other body areas, then this is the way to go to lighten/fade these spots or patches.   Not available until late spring, this is your heads-up.

Esoteric Information

March 8, 2010

I enjoy reading about new “age-defying” ingredients.  One of the best sources I’ve found is this website:   www.cosmeticsandtoilteries.com.  You can find the latest patents, product releases, skin care controversies, and just about anything you want about the world of cosmetics, skin care products, bath care products, and so forth. 

Check it out!

Retin-A Developer RIP

February 24, 2010

Normally I wouldn’t mention the dead in a skin care blog but this is an exception.  Albert Kligman, MD, PhD, died at age 93.  And who is Albert Kligman?  He was a botanist, a cosmetic chemist, a dermatologist and the genius behind  Retin-A, the potent form of vitamin A that was initially used to treat acne and then as acne patients aged and their skin continued improving, Retin-A (or tretinoin, as it’s generically known) became the gold standard of anti-aging cosmetic formulations.

Retin-A, Renova, retinol, retinol palmitate…there are many variations of topical vitamin A that have an anti-aging effect on the skin, all attributable to Dr. Kligman’s original research in the 1960’s.  Dr. Kligman also coined the term “cosmeceutical” in the early 1980’s.  He published more than 1,500 articles on acne, rosacea, eczema, contact dermatitis and skin agin.  He and his wife generously endowed the University of Pennsylvania with research grants to further the study of vitamin A and other cosmeceutical ingredients.  At his 90th birthday, hundreds of his former students came from around the world to honor him. 

So as we’re applying our daily anti-aging skin care routine, we have Dr. Kligman to thank!

Next Generation of AHAs

February 15, 2010

New to the Peels To The People anti-aging arsenal comes Age-Limit, a new generation of alphahydroxy acids (AHAs).  In the 1990s, AHAs were the most remarkable skin treatments ever developed for aging or problem skin.  But they had one big drawback:  irritation.

Age-Limit solves this problem with the AHAminoPlex molecule – a complex of glycolic acid and a naturally derived amino acid to ensure maximum acid delivery without penetrating skin’s zone of irritation.  This patented technology, developed by Drs. Yu and Van Scott, the pioneers of AHA skin therapy, is the next generation of AHAs.

This safe and effective new product is available now!  Coupled with periodic chemical peels, results are phenomenal.

Skin Science from Procter & Gamble

January 22, 2010
I came across this article on gene expression research from Procter & Gamble’s skin science website:  www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com.  P & G’s site has many excellent  and readable synopsis of research results on skin health and aging.  Below is verbatim from this site.  The photos of young vs. old skin are not available to view unless you go directly to P & G’s site.

Gene Expression Research Reveals Causes of Wrinkles, Age Spots

In the past, scientists studying aging skin have looked at various skin properties – thickness, color, moisture barrier, proteins, and internal cell structures. Today, P&G Beauty scientists are studying the differences between young and aged skin at the most fundamental level possible – gene expression. “The expression of your genetic code as it reacts to environmental change controls all the metabolic processes necessary for good skin health and function,” says P&G Beauty geneticist Dr. Jay Tiesman, PhD. “Now we understand which genes become either disabled or overactive as your skin gets older, resulting in the physiological changes we see as wrinkles and age spots.”

Young vs. Old, Protected vs. Exposed

Research analyzed skin samples collected from ten young and ten aged female subjects (18-20 and 60-67 years). Scientists collected skin biopsies of buttocks to test intrinsically aged skin and biopsies of forearms for extrinsically aged skin. The buttock and forearm biopsies were selected because of their relative exposure, or lack thereof, to environmental elements that may impact aging. Additionally, Affymetrix gene chip technology was used to examine the gene expression differences in the samples to reveal the underlying biological mechanisms responsible for the appearance of skin aging. The study allowed scientists to identify pathways that are active in young skin but inactive in old skin, as well as those that are overly active in older skin.

Young and old skin biopsies

Young and old skin biopsies

Sun Exposure Alters Skin Immune Function

One provocative finding was that aging associated with environmental factors, such as UV, not only accelerated the changes in natural aging genes as expected, but also turned on other gene responses. For example, the study demonstrates the magnitude of altered immune and inflammatory gene expression resulting from the photodamage process. This is important as recent scientific literature shows that UV-altered immune response in skin can increase susceptibility to skin cancer.

Driving Future Skin Anti-Aging Advances

This research is expected to drive breakthrough advances in both prevention and treatment of the signs of aging skin over the coming decades. By understanding how the expression of specific genes are modulated by the aging process, scientists now have the means to develop treatments to modify those processes that age skin considerably. “In the future, certain processes such as inflammation, proteolysis, lipid biosynthesis, or cellular differentiation, known to be involved in the breakdown of skin as it ages, may be able to be regulated,” speculates Dr. Michael Robinson, Principal Scientist, P&G Global Biotechnology, lead author on the study.

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Further Predictions

January 16, 2010

Let me share some thoughts written by David Suzuki, president of Bio-Therapeutic, the manufacturer of my Platinum Microcurrent device.  He begins by summarizing the financial uncertainties and opportunities of 2009, then proceeds with describing “the implementation of new services in new environments that cater to our new culture”.

“The new evolution of Americans has not displaced their priority of looking and feeling young; on the contrary, this priority has risen.  What has changed however is how they want to receive their services, the environment and the process.  Today’s clients have learned to be direct and frugal.  They have also learned the hard way that they, and only they, are responsible for their well being and livelihood”.

“Today’s clients will quickly sacrifice a two hour facial in the room for a 25 minute mini facial.  Mini-facials are generally specifically zone focused, therefore addressing their primary concerns.  Bottom line they are quick, practical, effective and allow the client a platform to become an active participant in their skin care, all of which speak to today’s new culture”.

Fast services such as peels, LED light treatments and mini-facials are a staple here at Peels To The People.

Skin Care Predictions 2010

January 3, 2010

I find it interesting to read what the “experts” say about skin care in the coming year.  These predictions are global in nature rather than specific to brands, colors, and so forth.   Sources are noted; most are market research firms either in the U.S. or the U.K.

1.  “Mood Beauty”:  there will be an increasing use of scents to promote well-being and induce sleep, for example.  Source:  Mintel International Group Ltd.

2.  “New Natural”: claims like “free from” and “sustainable” will appear in products that simulatneously contain synthetic actives like peptides, hyaluronic acid, ceramides and collagen.  Source:  Mintel International Group Ltd.

3.  “Waste Not”: consumers are adopting a “waste not, want not” mentality regarding skin care products.  They must be simple to use and make their skin better.  Souce:  S. Shelton, Shelton Group.

4.  “Skin Care: The Next Fast Food”: the consumer push-back that began with tobacco and more recently has focused on fast foods will soon be aimed at leading cosmetic companies and faux organic/natural lines.  Once social networks are mobilized against chemical “baddies”, personal care manufacturers need to be ready for the consumers’ rejections and offer natural and efficacious alternatives.  C. Swanson, Tonique, Utalkmarketing.com.

Personally I’m pleased that my own skin care line as well as the Epionce brand can back up their efficacy with clinical studies by third parties.  Their “scents” are botanical rather than synthetic, their packaging is minimal, and they have not been tested on animals.   I do believe that the skin care that I offer is already trend-setting.

Merry Christmas

December 24, 2009

I wish everyone a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.  Simple, repetitive statements heard innumerable times this season, but heartfelt here at Peels To The People.  Enjoy your life, your family and friends, your country and above all, take care.