New Retinol Peel

September 13, 2011

Now up on deck: the I Peel featuring a blend of retinol, salicylic acid and lactic acid. This cocktail is appropriate for aging skin showing signs of deeper wrinkles, unwanted pigmentation, roughness and lack of firmness, e.g. almost anyone over 55. This peel desquamates so look for peeling/flaking by day three and continuing for several days. Results are worth it…fresher, healthier-looking skin.

Prep for this peel is important: use of a daily AHA, retinol, or other form of exfoliant. Be sure to discontinue any exfoliant three days prior to the peel to avoid potential irritation.

Post-peel care includes a medical barrier cream, a mild cleanser and most importantly, an SPF of 30 or higher.

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Countdown To Face & Body Show

August 27, 2011

I’m here to learn all things SKIN in San Jose at the annual Face & Body Show. Especially looking forward to the Medical Aesthetics Forum and hearing about new peels to add to my repertoire.

Is Tanning An Addiction?

August 24, 2011

Yes, according to the findings recently published in the Journal of Addiction Biology.  People who regularly use tanning beds experience changes in brain activity that mimic patterns of drug addiction.  The study’s author, Dr. Byron Adinoff, a psychiatry professor at the University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center, explains that several parts of the brain that play a role in addiction were activated when the subjects were exposed to UV rays.

“What this shows is that the brain is in fact responding to UV light and it responds in areas that are associated with reward.  These are areas, particularly the striatum, that we see activated when someone is administered a drug or high-value food like sugar”, Dr. Adinoff states.  He continues to state that the research suggests that some people appear addicted to tanning, a finding bolstered by the fact that many long-term tanners have a difficult time stopping or even cutting back on their sessions under the tanning bed.

My thoughts:  self-tanning lotions are not addictive, are safe and look attractive, if tan is a look you’re going for.

At-Home Skin Devices

August 19, 2011

Savvy consumers are increasingly using at-home skin care devices for conditions ranging from acne to anti-aging, according to market research firm Kline & Company.    They estimate that these devices will account for nearly $1 billion (U.S.) in 2011 and will grow in 2012.  “Consumers are looking to save time and money by avoiding regular trips to the doctor for those in-office procedures that were once commonplace in a more robust economy.”

Anti-aging devices are expected to grow 50% this year.  According to Kline, anti-aging is the number one skin care concern for consumers, with topical product sales in this category comprising more than 40% of the market.

I have advocated for a microcurrent hand-held device called NuFace and recommend it for clients who have the time and dedication to do their own treatments on a daily basis.  The results have been very satisfactory, particularly if high-quality skin care is used in conjunction with the device.

Use It Up

August 15, 2011

I am often asked about the shelf-life of skin care products.  There are two answers to this question.  In the case of products with “reactive” ingredients such as retinols, ascorbic acid, alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids, product is old if it has been manufactured more than 8 to 12 months before being used by the client.  This problem occurs because active ingredients undergo auto0oxidation to varying degrees in any formulation.  Stability is defined as maintaining 50% of biologic activity.

The second case involves products with non-reactive ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, minerals and many essential oils.  The general rule of thumb is that unopened containers have a shelf-life of two years while opened product should be discarded after two years.  If in doubt, toss.

Is There An Association Between Wrinkles And Bone Density?

July 17, 2011

A recent study presented at the annual meeting of The Endocrine Society explored the association between bone mineral density and skin wrinkling.  Dr. Lubna Pal, a reproductive endocrinologist and professor at Yale School of Medicine, scored 144 postmenopausal women’s face and neck wrinkles (based on the number of sites and depth).  Bone mineral density was measured with DEXA, or dual-energy x-ray absorptiometry.

Dr. Pal and her associates found a significant association between wrinkle severity and bone density  More severe wrinkling was associated with lower bone density.  “In postmenopausal women, the appearance of the skin may offer a glimpse at the skeletal well-being, a relationship not previously described.  This information may allow the possibility of identifying postmenopausal women at fracture risk at a glance without dependence on costly tests”.

One common denominator between skin and bone is collagen.  Changes in collagen with age may affect both areas.

Periocular Wrinkling

January 11, 2011

If you are concerned about wrinkles around your eyes, then consider the recently-conducted clinical study by Episciences, Inc.  In a blinded, controlled clinical trial, two dual-action cosmeceutical products (Epionce Lite Lytic and Lytic Lotions) produced a statistically significant visible reduction in periocular wrinkles of 48.3% over a period of 8 weeks.  The Epionce products consist of blends of unique botanical extracts that have keratolytic (exfoliating) effects and prevent the release and activation of proinflammatory factors (leading to wrinkles).

Without the addition of soy, alpha hydroxy acids, retinoids, teas, vitamins or traditional antioxidants….ingredients found in many anti-aging products…both the Lite Lytic and Lytic Lotions are a new addition to the anti-aging armamentarium.  Formulated with non-irritating botanicals, these two products are suitable for even the most sensitive skin.

Ccontact Peels To The People for more information or samples of these and other fine Epionce products.

 

Ergothioneine: Mushroom Magic for Skin

November 7, 2010

Ergothioneine protects the skin from oxidative and DNA damage.   It is an antioxidant, protecting the mitochondrial membrane against oxidation.   It will transfer fatty acids into the mitochondria to help use oxygen efficiently and to produce more energy.  It also protects DNA from the oxidation of guanine.  Ergothioneine reduces TNF-Alpha (Tumor Necrosis Factor), a stress signal cytokine.

It is also one of five primary anti-aging ingredients found in Peels To The People’s Cell Youth Actif.  After a decade of research and multiple patents, CYA is now available from PTTP.  This exciting gel-like serum in an pump container fully compliments my other Peels products intended to correct cellular damage:  Vitamin C Intensive Serum and Retinol Resurfacing Complex.

Check Out Personal Care Truth

August 12, 2010

I invite you to visit www.personalcaretruth.com for information from a cosmetic chemists perspective.  There’s an extremely wide range of non-technical (and some technical) info. on ingredients, skin care legislation, packaging, and so forth.  For example, I did not know that a bill that’s been submitted to the House entitled the “Safe Cosmetics Act”  is actually punitive to skin care product manufacturers.  For more details, read “5 Ways the Safe Cosmetics Act Will Harm Consumers”.  You can even sign a petition to show your opposition to this bill.  We all want safe cosmetics but this unnecessary legislation only further complicates/hinders the acquisition and delivery of already heavily regulated consumer products.

Heat Rash & Other Seasonal Annoyances

July 8, 2010

Does heat rash occur on the face?  Usually not, unless your facial skin is covered by a bandana or mask or even goggles.  Heat rash is a common condition in which areas of the skin itch and are  prickly due to overheating.  It looks like small bumps in a sea of red patchy skin and usually occurs in clothed parts of the body such as the back, abdomen, neck, under the breasts, groin or armpits and goes away on its own after several days. 

You can avoid heat rash by wearing loose-fitting clothing and trying to stay indoors/away from heat sources as much as possible.  If the itching is unbearable, calamine lotion can be applied and cool bathes are also recommended.